![]() It’s less noticeable when belaying from below, but more on that in the belay performance section below. Thicker ropes seem to rub on the sidewalls of the device, adding friction, especially when the device is used in a top-down belay. Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range. * measured midway along slot as shown in photo Measuring the rope gap. Rope Gap Size of Various Belay Devices: DEVICEīD ATC Alpine Guide (half and twin ropes) The Edelrid Giga Jul is firmly on the thinner end of the spectrum by the ATC Alpine Guide, which is specifically designed for half and twin ropes. Of course this isn’t the only factor that determines the amount of friction developed by a given rope diameter but does provide some insight into which devices work better for thicker ropes and which for thinner ropes. I measured the rope gap width for a selection of belay devices and have summarized them in the below table. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when it comes to rope diameter. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. ![]() The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. Optimal Single Rope Diameter: An assortment of tube style belay devices. Of course the top-down belay or guide-mode can only be used in the Manual position but it has an assisted brake anyway. This means that when rappelling the Giga Jul has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying. However, move the switch over to the Assisted Brake position and it operates the same as the other Jul belay devices with assisted braking. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / top-down belay and even when rappelling. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag.Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes.Micro Jul: designed for half and twin ropes.The Giga Jul joins Edelrid’s family of Jul assisted braking devices: Type: Tube-Style Belay Device with Optional Assisted Braking.This makes it incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device. Unique in that it offers an assisted belay mode with the flip of a switch, much like the Mammut Smart. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. ![]() A prototype of the Edelrid Giga Jul that was on display at the 2018 Summer OR show.
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